Ice Tools
To leash or not to leash. The main improvement in the last couple of years has been the advent of more efficient and ergonomic tools that happen to not require leashes. The only real reason to strap yourself to a set of tools, while cragging, is to make sure that no matter how tired you are you’re not letting go of your tools. That amount of security can be reassuring if you get in over your head and start to feel the bite of a wicked pump. If you’re fit and have good
technique, a leashless tool is actually more efficient and quicker for winter cragging and mixed climbing. There are a few tools that allow both leashed and leashless climbing either by a combination of detachable leashless or replaceable handles.

The current trend in winter and alpine climbing is light and fast. Most technical ice tools are fairly heavy. They take a severe beating on a daily basis. They get hammered into hard black ice, beat on pitons, torqued into cracks and generally abused. While weight is an important consideration, so is reliability. Generally, the lighter the tool, the better your technique has to be and the stronger you have to be. A heaver tool will allow placement in hard ice on your first swing, while a lighter tool will require you to swing like a carpenter swinging at a
nail.

All technical tools these days sold in Europe (ya I know its not Europe, but it doesn’t seem like a good idea to make two tools, a Euro model and an American model) must pass minimum CE norms. The shaft of a technical tool must pass the T (technical) test, guaranteeing a minimum strength of 350kg. This is carried out by applying a load to the shaft as if it was being used in a snow belay, which, although far from practical - after all you'd be hard pressed for an axe belay to hold more the 35kg - does mean that when you're jamming the shaft into cracks and
standing on it, it should be up to the job.

Of far more importance is the pick rating, which is either denoted by a 'B' or 'T' stamped on the pick. The 'permanent deformation' test does not necessarily relate to practical application either; picks are clamped in a vice, a lever of 330mm (often the shaft of the tool itself) is used to apply 42 (B) or 60 (T) Newtons of force for 60 seconds. At the end of the test period the lever must not show more than 70mm of permanent deflection from its start position.  Unfortunately, most picks that are noted for their 'high performance' are B-rated, which suggests a contradiction between the best performance and the greatest strength. The 'cyclic fatigue' test applies only to T-rated picks, which must endure 50,000 flexes at the end of a 250mm lever in order to pass. What this means to you the climber is that B probably stands for 'Bent' if used for full on and intensive mixed climbing, while T stands for 'Tourque', aimed at some
serious twisting.

What this tells you is what the tool is intended for, meaning you take more care with a B-rated pick when it comes to a full-on horizontal torque. For the majority of climbers the best pick will no doubt be of the B variety, as this will work best on all terrains, but if your thing is mixed climbing, or you know you're a monster and have drawers full of broken picks, then go with a T pick.  Also take into account the cost and availability of pick replacement and spare
parts. You might save some cash buying a smaller or off name brand but the first time you break a pick you’ll wish you had bought a tool that has a large supply of spare picks, adzes and hammers.

Crampons
You wouldn’t tackle the Ames Ice Hose with your dad’s old wooden handled ice ax. Nor should you use his old leather strapped crampons. Most climbers will be best served by a relatively stiff/rigid, vertical-front-point model that has aggressively serrated second points and is somewhat shaped like a foot (anatomical). Flexible glacier ‘poons will make your calves feel like they are full of lactic acid. Generally, a full step-in model is best suited for vertical
ice climbing.

Boots
Your boots should be comfortable, warm, and supportive. What most winter ice climbers need is a reasonably stiff leather or synthetic boot that provides a good platform for step-in crampons, but it should not be so rigid as to feel like you’re walking in ski boots.

Fit is the most important part of ice boots. Ignore color and features and focus on fit. Any little constriction will be magnified by the cold. They should securely hold the mid section of the foot and prevent sliding or toe bumping when kicking. They should be snug in the heel and the toes should be able to wiggle. These guidelines will turn your toes from the “little-piggies-that-should” to the “little-piggies-that-could”.

Ice Screws
The last thing you should buy is a rack of ice screws, screamers, and ice pins. Screws are anywhere from 10cm to 22cm in length. Bigger is not always better. Ice pro is dependent on the quality of the ice. A 10cm screw sunk to the hilt in fat flow ice is stronger than a 22 cm screw sunk to the hilt in aerated-Styrofoam-“snice” ice. Having a selection of the available lengths will make sure you are ready for any ice condition or thickness. Make sure to have at
least one 22cm screw to thread an Abalakov anchor for rappels. Eight to ten of these will get you on your way. Ice screws work because they are wicked sharp. They need to stay that way. Treat them with great care. Keep the little plastic protectors on them to keep the teeth sharp and to keep them from wounding each other. In addition, you’ll want some screamers for the screws. They are designed to elongate under load to better absorb the fall.

Ropes
This is probably the most misunderstood part of climbing in general. You can ice climb with single, half, or twin rope systems. Each one has a distinct advantage and drawback. One thing they all share is that they need to be dry treated. This way they don’t turn into cables when they get wet. A wet rope is also weaker than a dry one, aside from the fact it’s also a lot heavier. All of these ropes are tested by the UIAA, which certifies them as a single, half, or twin rope. Single ropes are marked with a “1” inside a circle, and range in diameter from 9.1mm to
11mm. A single is good for most routes, making it the simplest, lightest, cheapest, and most popular way to go. Half ropes must be used in pairs. They are marked with “1/2”, and are usually between 7.8mm and 9mm in diameter. Being a pair they are heavier than their single cousin, and they require better and more complex rope management by both the leader and belayer. They stand out on long ice pitches or long trad routes where there is a real possibility of rope damage from rock or ice fall or a misplaced pick or crampon point. They also enable a
full-length rappel without trailing a rap cord. Half ropes are generally preferred to singles on ice because they stretch more than a single, decreasing the impact force on your ice screws. Buy
half ropes in two different colors to be able to tell which rope you should clip since you alternate ropes leading from piece to piece. Twin ropes are similar to half ropes in that they are used in pairs. Twins are clipped into each piece of protection like a single. They are great on easy alpine climbs where weight is a concern and the security of half ropes is not needed, but full-length rappels are.

Accessories and Clothing
Your pack should be big enough to carry all your stuff to the crag. You do not want stuff dangling off of your pack as if you were a nomadic herder. Your packshould be slim enough to climb with and not interfere with your helmet when you’re looking up.

Gloves are another piece of gear that is misunderstood. A big fat glove may be warm holding on to a ski pole, but not while holding on to an ice tool. The more insulation you have the more you’ll have to hold on to, making it harder to hold the ice tool. The preferred method is usually to have a thin water resistant glove with little insulation and a big fat pair of mittens stashed in your pack for belaying or drinking tea. The palm on the climbing glove should be fairly sticky, like leather. Leather is also durable for rappels. Thin climbing gloves make it easier to place screws, thread rappel anchors, zip up jackets, and pick your nose. Unfortunately, they are not the warmest things around, but that’s why you have the big cozy mittens.

You have a helmet on; make sure you have a liner to fit under it.